Home / Crochet
Crochet · Nov 11, 2026

10 Filet Crochet Patterns Simple Ideas

I picked up filet crochet on a grey November weekend when I wanted something quiet for my hands and found, to my surprise, that it asked almost nothing…

I picked up filet crochet on a grey November weekend when I wanted something quiet for my hands and found, to my surprise, that it asked almost nothing of me. Two stitches, chains and double crochets, arranged into a grid of empty windows and filled blocks, and suddenly a diamond or a pine tree appears out of what looked like plain lace. My first attempt was a wonky coaster that still lives under my coffee mug, and I have been hooked ever since. What follows are ten small projects I have actually made in my flat, each one simple enough to finish in an evening or two, and each one teaching me something the last one did not.

Filet Crochet Patterns Simple Ideas

1. Classic Geometric Diamond Coasters

1. Classic Geometric Diamond Coasters

I made my first set of diamond coasters with a ball of size 10 mercerized cotton thread and a 3.0 mm hook, sitting at my kitchen table with the chart propped against the sugar jar. The pattern is a 4 by 4 inch square of open mesh with a solid diamond nested right in the middle, and it taught me the whole filet system in miniature: an open mesh is one double crochet, chain two, skip two, double crochet, while a solid block is simply three double crochets worked into the space. I worked the first coaster far too tightly and the diamond came out pinched, so I loosened my grip on the second one and let the thread flow, and the difference was immediate. The trick I keep coming back to is counting the foundation chain carefully before I start, because the whole grid depends on it, and a mistake in row one shows up three rows later. I blocked the finished set by pinning them damp to a tea towel and pressing them with a warm iron, and they have survived two years of coffee rings without losing their shape. If you are brand new to reading charts, start here, because a coaster forgives a wobbly row and still looks lovely under a mug.

2. Minimalist Heart Bookmark or Wall Hanging

2. Minimalist Heart Bookmark or Wall Hanging

This little heart was my first gift project, and I made it for a friend who reads a book a week and loses every bookmark she owns. The piece is a slender rectangle of open mesh with one solid heart worked into the centre, and it took me a single quiet evening, which is exactly the pace I like for a small handmade gift. I used a soft ecru cotton thread, and at the bottom point of the heart I added a short fringe of thread ends, which turned a plain rectangle into something that looked finished rather than half done. My one mistake was skipping the blocking step the first time, and the heart looked slightly lopsided until I dampened it, pinned it square, and let it dry overnight. I have since made three more of these, and the wall hanging version works beautifully mounted on a slim wooden dowel with a bit of twine, hanging beside my bookshelf where it catches the morning light. If you want a project that feels generous without eating a whole weekend, this is the one I reach for.

3. Nordic Pine Tree Window Valance

3. Nordic Pine Tree Window Valance

I made this valance for the small window above my kitchen sink, where I wanted something that let the light in but softened the view of the brick wall opposite. The design is a row of repeating pine trees worked in solid blocks across an airy open mesh, and because each tree is symmetrical, the row counting stays simple once you have charted the first one. I worked it in a natural undyed cotton, which suits the pale wood of my kitchen, and I measured the window twice before I started, then added two extra grid squares so the finished piece would gather slightly instead of hanging flat. The part I underestimated was the finishing: I threaded a thin wooden dowel through the top row of meshes instead of sewing a casing, and it hangs perfectly straight with no fuss. When the sun comes through in the late afternoon, the pine trees throw the loveliest soft shadows onto the tiles. It is still my favourite thing in that room, and it cost me less than a ready-made curtain panel.

4. Modern Alphabet Monogram Mug Rug

4. Modern Alphabet Monogram Mug Rug

I first tried a monogram mug rug because I wanted a small personalised gift that did not look like every other handmade present, and a letter worked in solid blocks inside an open lace frame turned out to be exactly that. I charted my sister’s initial on graph paper first, one square per mesh, which sounds fussy but took ten minutes and saved me from ripping back rows. The rug itself is big enough for a coffee cup and a small plate of biscuits, and I worked mine in a dusty blue cotton that matches her kitchen. The step that matters most here is blocking: I dampened the finished piece, pinned the letter edges square, and pressed it gently with steam, and the monogram went from readable to crisp. My early version had a slightly wavy edge because I rushed the turning chains, so now I always chain five when a row starts with an open mesh and chain three when it starts with a solid block, and the sides stay straight. She uses hers every morning, which is the best review a handmade gift can get.

5. Scattered Star Table Runner

5. Scattered Star Table Runner

This runner lives on my dining table, and I made it in cream size 10 cotton thread because I wanted something that looked like it could have come from my grandmother’s house without feeling old-fashioned. The design is a field of open mesh with five-point and eight-point starbursts scattered down the centre, and the stars are built from small clusters of solid blocks, so the counting never gets complicated. I worked it in sections over a week of evenings, which suited me, because a long runner is the kind of project that goes stale if you try to rush it in one sitting. I added a simple scalloped border at each end, just a few extra rows of open mesh and picots, and it gives the whole piece a finished edge that the straight cut-off would have lacked. The one thing I would change is the length: I made mine a little short for the table, so measure your table and add at least twenty centimetres of overhang on each side. When I set the table with it now, the whole room feels calmer, and I am quietly proud of that every single time.

6. Butterfly Motif Pocket Patch

6. Butterfly Motif Pocket Patch

I sewed this butterfly patch onto the pocket of a plain denim jacket, and it is the project people ask me about most, which still surprises me because it is one of the smallest things I have ever made. The patch is a small square with symmetrical butterfly wings worked in solid blocks, and I used delicate chain-three loops for the antennae, which give it a lightness the solid stitches alone would not have. I worked mine in a variegated pastel yarn, and the colours shifted gently across the wings as I went, so no two patches ever look quite the same. I stitched it onto the jacket with a matching thread and a simple running stitch around the edge, and I learned to tack the centre of the patch down too, because my first attempt flapped open at the pocket edge after a wash. It has survived the washing machine many times now, and the butterfly still sits flat and bright. This is a perfect first patch if you want to try filet on clothing without committing to a whole garment.

7. Crescent Moon & Night Sky Wall Art

7. Crescent Moon & Night Sky Wall Art

I made this moon piece on a run of sleepless nights, which feels fitting, and it now hangs in my hallway where I see it every time I come home. The design is a circular piece of filet worked with a solid crescent moon curving along one side and tiny one-block stars scattered through the open mesh around it, and the whole thing is stretched inside a bamboo embroidery hoop. I used a deep indigo thread for the background field, which makes the pale moon stand out, and I mounted it in an eight-inch hoop so the circle would sit comfortably without stretching the stitches out of shape. The mistake I made was working the moon too close to the edge on my first try, so the crescent looked cramped; giving it one clear row of open mesh as a border made all the difference. I hung it against a dark painted wall, and in the evening light it looks like a little window onto a night sky. It took me two evenings, and it is the piece I am most often asked to make again for friends.

8. Honeycomb & Bumblebee Placemat

8. Honeycomb & Bumblebee Placemat

I made a set of four of these placemats for a summer lunch with friends, and they are still on the table most weekends. The design is an open hexagonal honeycomb grid with a solid-block bumblebee worked into the bottom-right corner, and the combination of the geometric lace and the little bee gives the set a warmth that plain placemats never have. I used a warm honey-coloured cotton for the bee and a natural ecru for the rest, which keeps the insect visible without shouting about it. The practical lesson here is about yarn choice: I used a sturdy cotton that holds its shape under plates and glasses, and I blocked each mat flat so the edges would not curl up when something hot sat on them. My first mat was slightly too small because I did not account for how much the cotton relaxes after its first wash, so I now make each one a row wider than the finished size I want. They wash well, dry flat on a towel, and they make even a simple Tuesday supper feel a little bit special.

9. Chevron Wave Summer Beach Bag Panel

9. Chevron Wave Summer Beach Bag Panel

I made this bag for a holiday by the Baltic Sea, and it carried everything from a paperback to a wet swimsuit without ever feeling flimsy. The bag is two square panels joined together, each one worked in bold chevron stripes of alternating open and solid blocks, and the zigzag reads beautifully from a distance, which is more than I can say for some of my subtler lace. I used a sturdy worsted-weight unmercerized cotton in two colours, a sandy natural and a soft sea blue, because the unmercerized yarn has a grip that keeps the bag’s shape instead of slumping. I lined the finished bag with a simple cotton fabric pouch, sewn by hand, because the open mesh would otherwise let small things slip through. The handles are short loops of the same cotton, worked in double crochet and stitched on firmly at the top corners, and I reinforced them with an extra row of stitching after the first handle started to stretch. It is not a delicate piece, and that is the point: it is a bag that gets used hard and still looks good.

10. Botanical Fern Leaf Cushion Cover

10. Botanical Fern Leaf Cushion Cover

This fern cushion sits on my sofa, and it is the piece I made when I finally felt confident enough to tackle something larger than a coaster. The front panel is a sixteen-inch square with a central fern frond rising through an open-grid field, and the leaf is built from solid blocks that taper as they climb, which sounds complicated but is really just the same counting I learned on the coasters, repeated patiently. I backed the finished panel with a piece of dark emerald velvet, and the contrast makes the pale cotton silhouette stand out in a way that surprised even me. I sewed the panel to the backing with a simple whip stitch around the edge and added a plain cotton back with an envelope closure, so the cover comes off for washing. My one regret is that I did not block the panel before assembling it, and the top corner pulls very slightly, which I notice and nobody else does. If you have made a few smaller filet pieces and want a project that earns a place in the room, this is the one to try next.

Conclusion

What I love most about filet crochet is how little it asks of you and how much it gives back: two stitches, a chart, and a quiet evening are enough to make something that looks like it took far more skill than it did. If you try one of these, start with the coasters, keep your tension relaxed, and block everything before you judge it. My wonky first coaster still sits under my mug, and I would not trade it for a perfect one.